Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Friday, September 25, 2009
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Mastering Weave Structures: Transforming Ideas into Great Cloth
Sharon Aldermana
DescriptionThis is the most important new weaving book Interweave Press has published in almost 20 years. Sharon Alderman, one of the finest weavers in America, has written a book that teaches you the finer points of weave structure in the same personal way a friend would encourage and inspire you. Clear explanations, wonderful examples, and color photographs of stunning fabrics introduce you to the fundamental principles of weave structure. Beyond selecting or modifying a draft, Sharon also helps you make decisions about choosing the fibers and yarns you need to produce endlessly inventive fabrics. Comprehensive and detailed, the chapters cover plain weave, twills, satin, waffle weaves, distortions of the grid, three-element weaves, loom-controlled double weave, Bedford cords and piques, loom-controlled pile weaves, and crepe weaves. This book is destined to become a new classic and should be on every weaver's bookshelf.
ISBN: 978-1-59668-137-8
260 pages
Dimensions: 9" x 10"
Mastering Weave Structures: Transforming Ideas into Great Cloth
Sharon Aldermana
DescriptionThis is the most important new weaving book Interweave Press has published in almost 20 years. Sharon Alderman, one of the finest weavers in America, has written a book that teaches you the finer points of weave structure in the same personal way a friend would encourage and inspire you. Clear explanations, wonderful examples, and color photographs of stunning fabrics introduce you to the fundamental principles of weave structure. Beyond selecting or modifying a draft, Sharon also helps you make decisions about choosing the fibers and yarns you need to produce endlessly inventive fabrics. Comprehensive and detailed, the chapters cover plain weave, twills, satin, waffle weaves, distortions of the grid, three-element weaves, loom-controlled double weave, Bedford cords and piques, loom-controlled pile weaves, and crepe weaves. This book is destined to become a new classic and should be on every weaver's bookshelf.
ISBN: 978-1-59668-137-8
260 pages
Dimensions: 9" x 10"
Mastering Weave Structures: Transforming Ideas into Great Cloth
Sharon Aldermana
DescriptionThis is the most important new weaving book Interweave Press has published in almost 20 years. Sharon Alderman, one of the finest weavers in America, has written a book that teaches you the finer points of weave structure in the same personal way a friend would encourage and inspire you. Clear explanations, wonderful examples, and color photographs of stunning fabrics introduce you to the fundamental principles of weave structure. Beyond selecting or modifying a draft, Sharon also helps you make decisions about choosing the fibers and yarns you need to produce endlessly inventive fabrics. Comprehensive and detailed, the chapters cover plain weave, twills, satin, waffle weaves, distortions of the grid, three-element weaves, loom-controlled double weave, Bedford cords and piques, loom-controlled pile weaves, and crepe weaves. This book is destined to become a new classic and should be on every weaver's bookshelf.
ISBN: 978-1-59668-137-8
260 pages
Dimensions: 9" x 10"
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Chemical finishing of textiles W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Chemical finishing of textiles
link 1 Download link2 Downlaod
W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 32
…provides an excellent introduction to the chemical finishing of textiles with useful practical information from the authors.
International Dyer
…compact and very readable.
International Dyer
- discusses the advantages and disadvantages of every important type of chemical finish
- combines technical understanding and practical experience concisely
- essential tool to assist in the demanding challenge of chemical finishing for textiles
The role of the textile finisher has become increasingly demanding, and now requires a careful balance between the compatibility of different finishing products and treatments and the application processes used to provide textiles with desirable properties. In one comprehensive book, Chemical finishing of textiles details the fundamentals of final chemical finishing, covering the range of effects that result from the interplay between chemical structures and finishing products.
After an introductory chapter covering the importance of chemical finishing, the following chapters focus on particular finishing techniques, from softening, easy-care and permanent press, non-slip and soil-release, to flame-retardant, antistatic and antimicrobial. Within each chapter, sections include an introduction, mechanisms, chemistries, applications, evaluations and troubleshooting. The book concludes with a chapter on the future trends in chemical finishing.
Chemical finishing of textiles is an essential reference for all academic and industrial textile chemists and for those studying textile education programmes.
ISBN 1 85573 905 4
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 905 5
August 2004
224 pages 234 x 156mm hardback
Dr W D Schindler is Professor of Textile Chemistry and Textile Finishing at the University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany. His main research interests are the chemistry of fibres, dyestuffs, textile auxiliaries, chemical finishing and textile chemical analysis. He published 39 papers and claimed several patents on new textile developments. Titles which may also be of interest: Introduction to chemical finishing Chemical finishing processes Softening finishes Hand building finishes Easy-care and durable press finishes of cellulosics Repellent finishes Soil-release finishes Flame-retardant finishes Non-slip finishes Antistatic finishes Anti-pilling finishes Elastomeric finishes Finishes to improve colour fastness Ultraviolet protection finishes Antimicrobial finishes Insect resist and mite protection finishes Finishing with enzymes: Bio-finishes for cellulose Novel finishes Actual and future trends in chemical finishingAbout the authors
Dr P J Hauser teaches undergraduate and graduate courses in the chemistry of textile wet processing at North Carolina State University. He has numerous scientific publications and patents in the area of high performance textile chemicals for enhanced product value.
WoolContents
- Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing
- The challenge and charm of chemical finishing
- Importance of chemical finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Application of chemical finishes
- Drying wet textiles
- Curing chemical finishes
- Coating and laminating
- References
- Appendix 2.1
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of the softening effect
- Typical softened textiles articles
- Product types and their chemistry
- Schematic comparison of important properties of softeners
- Compatibility and combinability
- Evaluation and testing methods
- Particulars of and troubleshooting softening finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Definitions and terms
- The hand building effect
- Examples of textiles with hand building finishes
- Typical hand builder chemistry
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of easy-care and durable press finishing
- Examples of textiles with easy-care and durable press finishes
- Chemistry of easy-care and durable press finishes
- Application methods
- Compatibility with other finishes
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting and practical problems
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of repellency
- Repellent chemistry
- Evaluation of textile treated with repellent finishes
- Troubleshooting repellent finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of soil release
- Soil release chemistry
- Evaluation of soil release
- Troubleshooting for soil release finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of flame retardancy
- Flame retardant chemistry
- Flame retardants for cellulose
- Flame retardants for wool
- Flame retardants for polyester
- Flame retardants for nylon
- Flame retardants for other fibres
- Flame retarding fibre blends
- Novel approach to flame retardancy: Intumescents
- Evaluation of flame retardants
- Troubleshooting flame retardant finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of non-slip finishes
- Chemisty of non-slip finishes
- Application methods and combinability
- Evaluation of non-slip finishes
- Troubleshooting non-slip finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of antistatic finishes
- Chemistry of antistatic finishes
- Conductive fibres
- Evaluation of antistatic finishes
- Troubleshooting antistatic finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Pilling mechanism
- Mechanisms and chemistry of anti-pilling finishes
- Evaluation of anti-pilling finishes
- Troubleshooting anti-pilling finishes and compatibility
- References
- Introduction
- Elastomeric mechanism
- Chemistry of elastomeric finishes
- Evaluation of elastomeric finishes
- Troubleshooting elastomeric finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Improved wet fastness
- Improved light fastness
- Improved crocking and rubbing fastness
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanism of UV protection
- Chemistry of UV protection finishes
- Evaluation of UV protection finishes
- Troubleshooting UV protection finishes and combinability
- References
- Introduction
- Properties of an effective antimicrobial finish
- Mechanisms of antimicrobial finishes
- Chemistry of antimicrobial finishes
- Evaluation of antimicrobial finishes
- Troubleshooting antimicrobial finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of insect resist finishes
- Chemistry of insect resist finishes
- Application of insect resist finishes
- Evaluation of insect resist finishes Troubleshooting insect resist finishes
- Finishes for protection from dust mites
- References
- Introduction
- Action of cellulase enzymes on cellulose
- Chemistry of enzyme finishing
- Evaluation of bio-finishing
- Troubleshooting bio-finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Anti-odour and fragrance finishes
- Fibre surface modifying finishes using plasma and radiation technologies
- Fibre surface modification by sol-gel finishes with inorganic oxide films
- References
- Introduction
- Cost reduction and higher efficiency
- New kinds of effects
- Less undesired side effects
- Easier application
- Micro-encapsulation, a new trend of storage and release of active finishing products
- Higher permanence to washing and chemical cleaning
- Easier care of the finished textiles
- Better ecology
- Using fewer chemicals
- Smart textiles by chemical finishing
- Summary and outlook
- References
Chemical finishing of textiles W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Chemical finishing of textiles
link 1 Download link2 Downlaod
W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 32
…provides an excellent introduction to the chemical finishing of textiles with useful practical information from the authors.
International Dyer
…compact and very readable.
International Dyer
- discusses the advantages and disadvantages of every important type of chemical finish
- combines technical understanding and practical experience concisely
- essential tool to assist in the demanding challenge of chemical finishing for textiles
The role of the textile finisher has become increasingly demanding, and now requires a careful balance between the compatibility of different finishing products and treatments and the application processes used to provide textiles with desirable properties. In one comprehensive book, Chemical finishing of textiles details the fundamentals of final chemical finishing, covering the range of effects that result from the interplay between chemical structures and finishing products.
After an introductory chapter covering the importance of chemical finishing, the following chapters focus on particular finishing techniques, from softening, easy-care and permanent press, non-slip and soil-release, to flame-retardant, antistatic and antimicrobial. Within each chapter, sections include an introduction, mechanisms, chemistries, applications, evaluations and troubleshooting. The book concludes with a chapter on the future trends in chemical finishing.
Chemical finishing of textiles is an essential reference for all academic and industrial textile chemists and for those studying textile education programmes.
ISBN 1 85573 905 4
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 905 5
August 2004
224 pages 234 x 156mm hardback
Dr W D Schindler is Professor of Textile Chemistry and Textile Finishing at the University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany. His main research interests are the chemistry of fibres, dyestuffs, textile auxiliaries, chemical finishing and textile chemical analysis. He published 39 papers and claimed several patents on new textile developments. Titles which may also be of interest: Introduction to chemical finishing Chemical finishing processes Softening finishes Hand building finishes Easy-care and durable press finishes of cellulosics Repellent finishes Soil-release finishes Flame-retardant finishes Non-slip finishes Antistatic finishes Anti-pilling finishes Elastomeric finishes Finishes to improve colour fastness Ultraviolet protection finishes Antimicrobial finishes Insect resist and mite protection finishes Finishing with enzymes: Bio-finishes for cellulose Novel finishes Actual and future trends in chemical finishingAbout the authors
Dr P J Hauser teaches undergraduate and graduate courses in the chemistry of textile wet processing at North Carolina State University. He has numerous scientific publications and patents in the area of high performance textile chemicals for enhanced product value.
WoolContents
- Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing
- The challenge and charm of chemical finishing
- Importance of chemical finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Application of chemical finishes
- Drying wet textiles
- Curing chemical finishes
- Coating and laminating
- References
- Appendix 2.1
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of the softening effect
- Typical softened textiles articles
- Product types and their chemistry
- Schematic comparison of important properties of softeners
- Compatibility and combinability
- Evaluation and testing methods
- Particulars of and troubleshooting softening finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Definitions and terms
- The hand building effect
- Examples of textiles with hand building finishes
- Typical hand builder chemistry
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of easy-care and durable press finishing
- Examples of textiles with easy-care and durable press finishes
- Chemistry of easy-care and durable press finishes
- Application methods
- Compatibility with other finishes
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting and practical problems
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of repellency
- Repellent chemistry
- Evaluation of textile treated with repellent finishes
- Troubleshooting repellent finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of soil release
- Soil release chemistry
- Evaluation of soil release
- Troubleshooting for soil release finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of flame retardancy
- Flame retardant chemistry
- Flame retardants for cellulose
- Flame retardants for wool
- Flame retardants for polyester
- Flame retardants for nylon
- Flame retardants for other fibres
- Flame retarding fibre blends
- Novel approach to flame retardancy: Intumescents
- Evaluation of flame retardants
- Troubleshooting flame retardant finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of non-slip finishes
- Chemisty of non-slip finishes
- Application methods and combinability
- Evaluation of non-slip finishes
- Troubleshooting non-slip finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of antistatic finishes
- Chemistry of antistatic finishes
- Conductive fibres
- Evaluation of antistatic finishes
- Troubleshooting antistatic finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Pilling mechanism
- Mechanisms and chemistry of anti-pilling finishes
- Evaluation of anti-pilling finishes
- Troubleshooting anti-pilling finishes and compatibility
- References
- Introduction
- Elastomeric mechanism
- Chemistry of elastomeric finishes
- Evaluation of elastomeric finishes
- Troubleshooting elastomeric finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Improved wet fastness
- Improved light fastness
- Improved crocking and rubbing fastness
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanism of UV protection
- Chemistry of UV protection finishes
- Evaluation of UV protection finishes
- Troubleshooting UV protection finishes and combinability
- References
- Introduction
- Properties of an effective antimicrobial finish
- Mechanisms of antimicrobial finishes
- Chemistry of antimicrobial finishes
- Evaluation of antimicrobial finishes
- Troubleshooting antimicrobial finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of insect resist finishes
- Chemistry of insect resist finishes
- Application of insect resist finishes
- Evaluation of insect resist finishes Troubleshooting insect resist finishes
- Finishes for protection from dust mites
- References
- Introduction
- Action of cellulase enzymes on cellulose
- Chemistry of enzyme finishing
- Evaluation of bio-finishing
- Troubleshooting bio-finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Anti-odour and fragrance finishes
- Fibre surface modifying finishes using plasma and radiation technologies
- Fibre surface modification by sol-gel finishes with inorganic oxide films
- References
- Introduction
- Cost reduction and higher efficiency
- New kinds of effects
- Less undesired side effects
- Easier application
- Micro-encapsulation, a new trend of storage and release of active finishing products
- Higher permanence to washing and chemical cleaning
- Easier care of the finished textiles
- Better ecology
- Using fewer chemicals
- Smart textiles by chemical finishing
- Summary and outlook
- References
Chemical finishing of textiles W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Chemical finishing of textiles
link 1 Download link2 Downlaod
W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 32
…provides an excellent introduction to the chemical finishing of textiles with useful practical information from the authors.
International Dyer
…compact and very readable.
International Dyer
- discusses the advantages and disadvantages of every important type of chemical finish
- combines technical understanding and practical experience concisely
- essential tool to assist in the demanding challenge of chemical finishing for textiles
The role of the textile finisher has become increasingly demanding, and now requires a careful balance between the compatibility of different finishing products and treatments and the application processes used to provide textiles with desirable properties. In one comprehensive book, Chemical finishing of textiles details the fundamentals of final chemical finishing, covering the range of effects that result from the interplay between chemical structures and finishing products.
After an introductory chapter covering the importance of chemical finishing, the following chapters focus on particular finishing techniques, from softening, easy-care and permanent press, non-slip and soil-release, to flame-retardant, antistatic and antimicrobial. Within each chapter, sections include an introduction, mechanisms, chemistries, applications, evaluations and troubleshooting. The book concludes with a chapter on the future trends in chemical finishing.
Chemical finishing of textiles is an essential reference for all academic and industrial textile chemists and for those studying textile education programmes.
ISBN 1 85573 905 4
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 905 5
August 2004
224 pages 234 x 156mm hardback
Dr W D Schindler is Professor of Textile Chemistry and Textile Finishing at the University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany. His main research interests are the chemistry of fibres, dyestuffs, textile auxiliaries, chemical finishing and textile chemical analysis. He published 39 papers and claimed several patents on new textile developments. Titles which may also be of interest: Introduction to chemical finishing Chemical finishing processes Softening finishes Hand building finishes Easy-care and durable press finishes of cellulosics Repellent finishes Soil-release finishes Flame-retardant finishes Non-slip finishes Antistatic finishes Anti-pilling finishes Elastomeric finishes Finishes to improve colour fastness Ultraviolet protection finishes Antimicrobial finishes Insect resist and mite protection finishes Finishing with enzymes: Bio-finishes for cellulose Novel finishes Actual and future trends in chemical finishingAbout the authors
Dr P J Hauser teaches undergraduate and graduate courses in the chemistry of textile wet processing at North Carolina State University. He has numerous scientific publications and patents in the area of high performance textile chemicals for enhanced product value.
WoolContents
- Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing
- The challenge and charm of chemical finishing
- Importance of chemical finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Application of chemical finishes
- Drying wet textiles
- Curing chemical finishes
- Coating and laminating
- References
- Appendix 2.1
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of the softening effect
- Typical softened textiles articles
- Product types and their chemistry
- Schematic comparison of important properties of softeners
- Compatibility and combinability
- Evaluation and testing methods
- Particulars of and troubleshooting softening finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Definitions and terms
- The hand building effect
- Examples of textiles with hand building finishes
- Typical hand builder chemistry
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of easy-care and durable press finishing
- Examples of textiles with easy-care and durable press finishes
- Chemistry of easy-care and durable press finishes
- Application methods
- Compatibility with other finishes
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting and practical problems
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of repellency
- Repellent chemistry
- Evaluation of textile treated with repellent finishes
- Troubleshooting repellent finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of soil release
- Soil release chemistry
- Evaluation of soil release
- Troubleshooting for soil release finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of flame retardancy
- Flame retardant chemistry
- Flame retardants for cellulose
- Flame retardants for wool
- Flame retardants for polyester
- Flame retardants for nylon
- Flame retardants for other fibres
- Flame retarding fibre blends
- Novel approach to flame retardancy: Intumescents
- Evaluation of flame retardants
- Troubleshooting flame retardant finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of non-slip finishes
- Chemisty of non-slip finishes
- Application methods and combinability
- Evaluation of non-slip finishes
- Troubleshooting non-slip finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of antistatic finishes
- Chemistry of antistatic finishes
- Conductive fibres
- Evaluation of antistatic finishes
- Troubleshooting antistatic finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Pilling mechanism
- Mechanisms and chemistry of anti-pilling finishes
- Evaluation of anti-pilling finishes
- Troubleshooting anti-pilling finishes and compatibility
- References
- Introduction
- Elastomeric mechanism
- Chemistry of elastomeric finishes
- Evaluation of elastomeric finishes
- Troubleshooting elastomeric finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Improved wet fastness
- Improved light fastness
- Improved crocking and rubbing fastness
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanism of UV protection
- Chemistry of UV protection finishes
- Evaluation of UV protection finishes
- Troubleshooting UV protection finishes and combinability
- References
- Introduction
- Properties of an effective antimicrobial finish
- Mechanisms of antimicrobial finishes
- Chemistry of antimicrobial finishes
- Evaluation of antimicrobial finishes
- Troubleshooting antimicrobial finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of insect resist finishes
- Chemistry of insect resist finishes
- Application of insect resist finishes
- Evaluation of insect resist finishes Troubleshooting insect resist finishes
- Finishes for protection from dust mites
- References
- Introduction
- Action of cellulase enzymes on cellulose
- Chemistry of enzyme finishing
- Evaluation of bio-finishing
- Troubleshooting bio-finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Anti-odour and fragrance finishes
- Fibre surface modifying finishes using plasma and radiation technologies
- Fibre surface modification by sol-gel finishes with inorganic oxide films
- References
- Introduction
- Cost reduction and higher efficiency
- New kinds of effects
- Less undesired side effects
- Easier application
- Micro-encapsulation, a new trend of storage and release of active finishing products
- Higher permanence to washing and chemical cleaning
- Easier care of the finished textiles
- Better ecology
- Using fewer chemicals
- Smart textiles by chemical finishing
- Summary and outlook
- References
Handbook of textile design J Wilson, UMIST, UK
J Wilson, UMIST, UK
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14
- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design
Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.
Published in association with The Textile Institute
ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents
An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography
Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography
The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography
Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography
Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Download
Handbook of textile design J Wilson, UMIST, UK
J Wilson, UMIST, UK
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14
- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design
Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.
Published in association with The Textile Institute
ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents
An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography
Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography
The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography
Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography
Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Download
Handbook of textile design J Wilson, UMIST, UK
J Wilson, UMIST, UK
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14
- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design
Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.
Published in association with The Textile Institute
ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents
An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography
Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography
The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography
Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography
Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Download
Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles By : Maria C. Thiry
| Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles |
| By : Maria C. Thiry Source: AATCC There are many options to weigh when considering which antimicrobial is best for a particular product. Application method is an important aspect to examine in more detail. According to Damien Fruchart, textile engineer with Asix International Development Consultancy, there are three main options for applying an antimicrobial agent to textiles. Each has its own advantages and challenges. The first option is treating the fabric through an "aqueous process" in the finishing line with the antimicrobial substance. The second is incorporating the antimicrobial into or onto the fiber itself. A third application method, according to Fruchart, is post-consumer, "an additive designed to be added to the laundering water each time the product is washed." Applied to the Fabric The benefit of topical antimicrobial treatment applied to the fabric during the finishing stage is that "Topical application is more versatile," says Jeff Trogolo, chief technology officer for antimicrobial supplier Agion. "It's later in the process and gives the retailer more flexibility about which fabric to choose." A topical antimicrobial finish is appropriate for any use that uses a relatively small amount of fabric, or one that mixes many different fiber types, Trogolo says. Washfastness is key, says Hirotoshi Goto, professional engineer JP for fabric supplier Toray Industries. In Japan, the standard for wash durability is 50 washes at 80C for industrial laundering such as hospitals. For non-hygiene-critical applications such as home laundering, 20 washes at 40C is considered standard. Washfastness can be improved through the use of a highly durable resinous binder, which has better affinity with the agent and fiber and works like an adhesive, says Goto. "But this kind of resin is hydrophobic, and will give new problems," he says. Issues may include residual formaldehyde, or a fabric that is unable to absorb perspiration. Goto says that a new method used by his company applies the antimicrobial as a fabric finish without a binder. Instead, the antimicrobial infiltrates into the synthetic fibers in a manner similar to a disperse dye. "This agent has especially high affinity with polyester fiber," says Goto. Another challenge of using topical antimicrobial finishes, says antimicrobial consultant William D. Hanrahan, is that "each individual fiber and fiber blend has its own chemistry and its own way of being finished. You have to make sure that the antimicrobial doesn't interfere with any other finishes being applied to the fabric, and that the characteristics of the fabric-hand, water repellency, fire retardance-aren't changed." Applied to the Fiber Applying the antimicrobial directly into the fiber master batch during synthetic fiber formation is also popular. According to Hanrahan, adding the antimicrobial at the fiber stage narrows the field of antimicrobials that can be used because synthetic fibers are commonly extruded at high temperatures. This rules out most organic antimicrobials says Mark Wiencek of Milliken, because many are not thermally stable. "They may lose some of the active ingredients. Incorporation of antimicrobials into textile fibers during the spinning process (often via a master batch) is an application dominated by silver. This is because silver is thermo-stable," he says. "Antimicrobial agents blended into the fiber can show superior washing durability, but take longer to work," says Goto. He also says that, since many of the fiber-application systems are metal-based antimicrobials, the color of the fiber can sometimes be affected. Hanrahan says that another limitation of this application is that the retailer loses flexibility, because the antimicrobial is added far back into the supply chain. "It means you have to carry inventory. And the product may be marked up along the supply chain," he says. "This application tends to be more durable, but not as economical." According to Trogolo, this kind of application is best for end-uses that need large amounts of one kind of fiber, such as upholstery or uniforms. Other Applications Other ways of applying antimicrobials to textiles are less common. Noble Biomaterials' X-Static product is a "universal and permanent coating of silver on substrates from yarn to fabric," says the company's Chief Commercial Officer, Joel M. Furey. This system is "primarily intended where users need high levels of performance," says Furey. This means "high kill rates of bacteria and fungi with a fast kill action," he says. Another product with a high kill rate is chlorine. According to Wiencek, n-halamine binders "have a unique way of dealing with antimicrobial treatments-they bind chlorine to the fabric, so that they can make claims that EPA-registered chlorine bleach can make." According to Fruchart, chlorine is "as good as any disinfectant. A 99.9% killing rate is reached within an hour, which is quicker than most other aqueous treatments." This is Fruchart's post-consumer after-treatment method. The chlorine is used as an antimicrobial and is recharged onto the fabric by adding chlorine bleach to the laundry. A drawback to this system, says Wiencek, is that although this technology is intended for niches that require industrial laundering, not all industrial laundries use chlorine-based bleach. Fruchart remarks that in a laminated product, "instead of treating the fabric, an antimicrobial agent is added in the adhesive. The active ingredient will radiate, thus creating an inhibition zone, while remaining resistant to laundering." Adhesive treatment makes it possible for laminated polyester fabric to maintain an antimicrobial activity despite prolonged washing cycles. In a similar vein, Fruchart notes that "one technique, although not frequently used, consists of placing antimicrobial agents contingent in between two membranes. The membranes' permeability allows the controlled release of active ingredients, which migrate to the surface. This type of process is mainly....for products that do not get laundered, like mattress covers and separation curtains. With complementary methods, protection can last for several years." A flexible technology like the Aegis SiQuat can be applied in or onto fibers, fabrics, or post-consumer laundry treatment, says Bob Montincello of Aegis Environments. "This versatility in application provides textile mills with options... [that] keep down costs and maximize performance," he says. "The best application procedure for antimicrobial treatment will provide for mill qualification testing and good, solid SOPs, along with quality assurance procedures that are based upon useful chemical analytical and microbiological tests," says Curt White of Aegis Environments. Does the Application Matter? Depending on the product's end-use, the marketing claims made, the antimicrobial's chemical and physical properties, and its mode of antimicrobial activity, the antimicrobial's application does matter. Some antimicrobials can be applied in several ways, but other technologies are limited to one mode of application. A product designer's main priorities, whether for flexibility, durability, cost, compatibility with other finishes, spectrum of microbes to be fought, or high-performance, may influence the application, and the antimicrobial, chosen to protect that product. Application matters! Originally published in AATCC News; June 2009 © AATCC About the Author The author is associated with AATCC. |
Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles By : Maria C. Thiry
| Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles |
| By : Maria C. Thiry Source: AATCC There are many options to weigh when considering which antimicrobial is best for a particular product. Application method is an important aspect to examine in more detail. According to Damien Fruchart, textile engineer with Asix International Development Consultancy, there are three main options for applying an antimicrobial agent to textiles. Each has its own advantages and challenges. The first option is treating the fabric through an "aqueous process" in the finishing line with the antimicrobial substance. The second is incorporating the antimicrobial into or onto the fiber itself. A third application method, according to Fruchart, is post-consumer, "an additive designed to be added to the laundering water each time the product is washed." Applied to the Fabric The benefit of topical antimicrobial treatment applied to the fabric during the finishing stage is that "Topical application is more versatile," says Jeff Trogolo, chief technology officer for antimicrobial supplier Agion. "It's later in the process and gives the retailer more flexibility about which fabric to choose." A topical antimicrobial finish is appropriate for any use that uses a relatively small amount of fabric, or one that mixes many different fiber types, Trogolo says. Washfastness is key, says Hirotoshi Goto, professional engineer JP for fabric supplier Toray Industries. In Japan, the standard for wash durability is 50 washes at 80C for industrial laundering such as hospitals. For non-hygiene-critical applications such as home laundering, 20 washes at 40C is considered standard. Washfastness can be improved through the use of a highly durable resinous binder, which has better affinity with the agent and fiber and works like an adhesive, says Goto. "But this kind of resin is hydrophobic, and will give new problems," he says. Issues may include residual formaldehyde, or a fabric that is unable to absorb perspiration. Goto says that a new method used by his company applies the antimicrobial as a fabric finish without a binder. Instead, the antimicrobial infiltrates into the synthetic fibers in a manner similar to a disperse dye. "This agent has especially high affinity with polyester fiber," says Goto. Another challenge of using topical antimicrobial finishes, says antimicrobial consultant William D. Hanrahan, is that "each individual fiber and fiber blend has its own chemistry and its own way of being finished. You have to make sure that the antimicrobial doesn't interfere with any other finishes being applied to the fabric, and that the characteristics of the fabric-hand, water repellency, fire retardance-aren't changed." Applied to the Fiber Applying the antimicrobial directly into the fiber master batch during synthetic fiber formation is also popular. According to Hanrahan, adding the antimicrobial at the fiber stage narrows the field of antimicrobials that can be used because synthetic fibers are commonly extruded at high temperatures. This rules out most organic antimicrobials says Mark Wiencek of Milliken, because many are not thermally stable. "They may lose some of the active ingredients. Incorporation of antimicrobials into textile fibers during the spinning process (often via a master batch) is an application dominated by silver. This is because silver is thermo-stable," he says. "Antimicrobial agents blended into the fiber can show superior washing durability, but take longer to work," says Goto. He also says that, since many of the fiber-application systems are metal-based antimicrobials, the color of the fiber can sometimes be affected. Hanrahan says that another limitation of this application is that the retailer loses flexibility, because the antimicrobial is added far back into the supply chain. "It means you have to carry inventory. And the product may be marked up along the supply chain," he says. "This application tends to be more durable, but not as economical." According to Trogolo, this kind of application is best for end-uses that need large amounts of one kind of fiber, such as upholstery or uniforms. Other Applications Other ways of applying antimicrobials to textiles are less common. Noble Biomaterials' X-Static product is a "universal and permanent coating of silver on substrates from yarn to fabric," says the company's Chief Commercial Officer, Joel M. Furey. This system is "primarily intended where users need high levels of performance," says Furey. This means "high kill rates of bacteria and fungi with a fast kill action," he says. Another product with a high kill rate is chlorine. According to Wiencek, n-halamine binders "have a unique way of dealing with antimicrobial treatments-they bind chlorine to the fabric, so that they can make claims that EPA-registered chlorine bleach can make." According to Fruchart, chlorine is "as good as any disinfectant. A 99.9% killing rate is reached within an hour, which is quicker than most other aqueous treatments." This is Fruchart's post-consumer after-treatment method. The chlorine is used as an antimicrobial and is recharged onto the fabric by adding chlorine bleach to the laundry. A drawback to this system, says Wiencek, is that although this technology is intended for niches that require industrial laundering, not all industrial laundries use chlorine-based bleach. Fruchart remarks that in a laminated product, "instead of treating the fabric, an antimicrobial agent is added in the adhesive. The active ingredient will radiate, thus creating an inhibition zone, while remaining resistant to laundering." Adhesive treatment makes it possible for laminated polyester fabric to maintain an antimicrobial activity despite prolonged washing cycles. In a similar vein, Fruchart notes that "one technique, although not frequently used, consists of placing antimicrobial agents contingent in between two membranes. The membranes' permeability allows the controlled release of active ingredients, which migrate to the surface. This type of process is mainly....for products that do not get laundered, like mattress covers and separation curtains. With complementary methods, protection can last for several years." A flexible technology like the Aegis SiQuat can be applied in or onto fibers, fabrics, or post-consumer laundry treatment, says Bob Montincello of Aegis Environments. "This versatility in application provides textile mills with options... [that] keep down costs and maximize performance," he says. "The best application procedure for antimicrobial treatment will provide for mill qualification testing and good, solid SOPs, along with quality assurance procedures that are based upon useful chemical analytical and microbiological tests," says Curt White of Aegis Environments. Does the Application Matter? Depending on the product's end-use, the marketing claims made, the antimicrobial's chemical and physical properties, and its mode of antimicrobial activity, the antimicrobial's application does matter. Some antimicrobials can be applied in several ways, but other technologies are limited to one mode of application. A product designer's main priorities, whether for flexibility, durability, cost, compatibility with other finishes, spectrum of microbes to be fought, or high-performance, may influence the application, and the antimicrobial, chosen to protect that product. Application matters! Originally published in AATCC News; June 2009 © AATCC About the Author The author is associated with AATCC. |