Handbook of textile design J Wilson, UMIST, UK

Handbook of textile design Link 1 Download link 2 Download
J Wilson, UMIST, UK

Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14

- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design

Discription

Designers in the textile industry have a wide range of roles and responsibilities and are frequently required to make design decisions throughout the manufacturing process. This very practical handbook provides a comprehensive overview of the role of the textile designer within the textile industry. It deals with the all aspects of the design process from the beginning – from how to go about attracting clients through range planning and development to presentation. It firmly locates the work of the textile designer within the wider context of the global textile and clothing industries and considers the process of design for both freelance and in-house designers. Commercial considerations are also covered, together with trend forecasting and the factors influencing purchasing decisions.

Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents

An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography

Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography

The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography

The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography

Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography

Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography

Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography

Download

Handbook of textile design J Wilson, UMIST, UK

Handbook of textile design Link 1 Download link 2 Download
J Wilson, UMIST, UK

Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14

- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design

Discription

Designers in the textile industry have a wide range of roles and responsibilities and are frequently required to make design decisions throughout the manufacturing process. This very practical handbook provides a comprehensive overview of the role of the textile designer within the textile industry. It deals with the all aspects of the design process from the beginning – from how to go about attracting clients through range planning and development to presentation. It firmly locates the work of the textile designer within the wider context of the global textile and clothing industries and considers the process of design for both freelance and in-house designers. Commercial considerations are also covered, together with trend forecasting and the factors influencing purchasing decisions.

Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents

An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography

Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography

The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography

The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography

Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography

Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography

Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography

Download

Handbook of textile design J Wilson, UMIST, UK

Handbook of textile design Link 1 Download link 2 Download
J Wilson, UMIST, UK

Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14

- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design

Discription

Designers in the textile industry have a wide range of roles and responsibilities and are frequently required to make design decisions throughout the manufacturing process. This very practical handbook provides a comprehensive overview of the role of the textile designer within the textile industry. It deals with the all aspects of the design process from the beginning – from how to go about attracting clients through range planning and development to presentation. It firmly locates the work of the textile designer within the wider context of the global textile and clothing industries and considers the process of design for both freelance and in-house designers. Commercial considerations are also covered, together with trend forecasting and the factors influencing purchasing decisions.

Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents

An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography

Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography

The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography

The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography

Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography

Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography

Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography

Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography

Download

Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles By : Maria C. Thiry

Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles

By : Maria C. Thiry Source: AATCC There are many options to weigh when considering which antimicrobial is best for a particular product. Application method is an important aspect to examine in more detail. According to Damien Fruchart, textile engineer with Asix International Development Consultancy, there are three main options for applying an antimicrobial agent to textiles. Each has its own advantages and challenges. The first option is treating the fabric through an "aqueous process" in the finishing line with the antimicrobial substance. The second is incorporating the antimicrobial into or onto the fiber itself. A third application method, according to Fruchart, is post-consumer, "an additive designed to be added to the laundering water each time the product is washed." Applied to the Fabric The benefit of topical antimicrobial treatment applied to the fabric during the finishing stage is that "Topical application is more versatile," says Jeff Trogolo, chief technology officer for antimicrobial supplier Agion. "It's later in the process and gives the retailer more flexibility about which fabric to choose." A topical antimicrobial finish is appropriate for any use that uses a relatively small amount of fabric, or one that mixes many different fiber types, Trogolo says. Washfastness is key, says Hirotoshi Goto, professional engineer JP for fabric supplier Toray Industries. In Japan, the standard for wash durability is 50 washes at 80C for industrial laundering such as hospitals. For non-hygiene-critical applications such as home laundering, 20 washes at 40C is considered standard. Washfastness can be improved through the use of a highly durable resinous binder, which has better affinity with the agent and fiber and works like an adhesive, says Goto. "But this kind of resin is hydrophobic, and will give new problems," he says. Issues may include residual formaldehyde, or a fabric that is unable to absorb perspiration. Goto says that a new method used by his company applies the antimicrobial as a fabric finish without a binder. Instead, the antimicrobial infiltrates into the synthetic fibers in a manner similar to a disperse dye. "This agent has especially high affinity with polyester fiber," says Goto. Another challenge of using topical antimicrobial finishes, says antimicrobial consultant William D. Hanrahan, is that "each individual fiber and fiber blend has its own chemistry and its own way of being finished. You have to make sure that the antimicrobial doesn't interfere with any other finishes being applied to the fabric, and that the characteristics of the fabric-hand, water repellency, fire retardance-aren't changed." Applied to the Fiber Applying the antimicrobial directly into the fiber master batch during synthetic fiber formation is also popular. According to Hanrahan, adding the antimicrobial at the fiber stage narrows the field of antimicrobials that can be used because synthetic fibers are commonly extruded at high temperatures. This rules out most organic antimicrobials says Mark Wiencek of Milliken, because many are not thermally stable. "They may lose some of the active ingredients. Incorporation of antimicrobials into textile fibers during the spinning process (often via a master batch) is an application dominated by silver. This is because silver is thermo-stable," he says. "Antimicrobial agents blended into the fiber can show superior washing durability, but take longer to work," says Goto. He also says that, since many of the fiber-application systems are metal-based antimicrobials, the color of the fiber can sometimes be affected. Hanrahan says that another limitation of this application is that the retailer loses flexibility, because the antimicrobial is added far back into the supply chain. "It means you have to carry inventory. And the product may be marked up along the supply chain," he says. "This application tends to be more durable, but not as economical." According to Trogolo, this kind of application is best for end-uses that need large amounts of one kind of fiber, such as upholstery or uniforms. Other Applications Other ways of applying antimicrobials to textiles are less common. Noble Biomaterials' X-Static product is a "universal and permanent coating of silver on substrates from yarn to fabric," says the company's Chief Commercial Officer, Joel M. Furey. This system is "primarily intended where users need high levels of performance," says Furey. This means "high kill rates of bacteria and fungi with a fast kill action," he says. Another product with a high kill rate is chlorine. According to Wiencek, n-halamine binders "have a unique way of dealing with antimicrobial treatments-they bind chlorine to the fabric, so that they can make claims that EPA-registered chlorine bleach can make." According to Fruchart, chlorine is "as good as any disinfectant. A 99.9% killing rate is reached within an hour, which is quicker than most other aqueous treatments." This is Fruchart's post-consumer after-treatment method. The chlorine is used as an antimicrobial and is recharged onto the fabric by adding chlorine bleach to the laundry. A drawback to this system, says Wiencek, is that although this technology is intended for niches that require industrial laundering, not all industrial laundries use chlorine-based bleach. Fruchart remarks that in a laminated product, "instead of treating the fabric, an antimicrobial agent is added in the adhesive. The active ingredient will radiate, thus creating an inhibition zone, while remaining resistant to laundering." Adhesive treatment makes it possible for laminated polyester fabric to maintain an antimicrobial activity despite prolonged washing cycles. In a similar vein, Fruchart notes that "one technique, although not frequently used, consists of placing antimicrobial agents contingent in between two membranes. The membranes' permeability allows the controlled release of active ingredients, which migrate to the surface. This type of process is mainly....for products that do not get laundered, like mattress covers and separation curtains. With complementary methods, protection can last for several years." A flexible technology like the Aegis SiQuat can be applied in or onto fibers, fabrics, or post-consumer laundry treatment, says Bob Montincello of Aegis Environments. "This versatility in application provides textile mills with options... [that] keep down costs and maximize performance," he says. "The best application procedure for antimicrobial treatment will provide for mill qualification testing and good, solid SOPs, along with quality assurance procedures that are based upon useful chemical analytical and microbiological tests," says Curt White of Aegis Environments. Does the Application Matter? Depending on the product's end-use, the marketing claims made, the antimicrobial's chemical and physical properties, and its mode of antimicrobial activity, the antimicrobial's application does matter. Some antimicrobials can be applied in several ways, but other technologies are limited to one mode of application. A product designer's main priorities, whether for flexibility, durability, cost, compatibility with other finishes, spectrum of microbes to be fought, or high-performance, may influence the application, and the antimicrobial, chosen to protect that product. Application matters! Originally published in AATCC News; June 2009 © AATCC About the Author The author is associated with AATCC.

Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles By : Maria C. Thiry

Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles

By : Maria C. Thiry Source: AATCC There are many options to weigh when considering which antimicrobial is best for a particular product. Application method is an important aspect to examine in more detail. According to Damien Fruchart, textile engineer with Asix International Development Consultancy, there are three main options for applying an antimicrobial agent to textiles. Each has its own advantages and challenges. The first option is treating the fabric through an "aqueous process" in the finishing line with the antimicrobial substance. The second is incorporating the antimicrobial into or onto the fiber itself. A third application method, according to Fruchart, is post-consumer, "an additive designed to be added to the laundering water each time the product is washed." Applied to the Fabric The benefit of topical antimicrobial treatment applied to the fabric during the finishing stage is that "Topical application is more versatile," says Jeff Trogolo, chief technology officer for antimicrobial supplier Agion. "It's later in the process and gives the retailer more flexibility about which fabric to choose." A topical antimicrobial finish is appropriate for any use that uses a relatively small amount of fabric, or one that mixes many different fiber types, Trogolo says. Washfastness is key, says Hirotoshi Goto, professional engineer JP for fabric supplier Toray Industries. In Japan, the standard for wash durability is 50 washes at 80C for industrial laundering such as hospitals. For non-hygiene-critical applications such as home laundering, 20 washes at 40C is considered standard. Washfastness can be improved through the use of a highly durable resinous binder, which has better affinity with the agent and fiber and works like an adhesive, says Goto. "But this kind of resin is hydrophobic, and will give new problems," he says. Issues may include residual formaldehyde, or a fabric that is unable to absorb perspiration. Goto says that a new method used by his company applies the antimicrobial as a fabric finish without a binder. Instead, the antimicrobial infiltrates into the synthetic fibers in a manner similar to a disperse dye. "This agent has especially high affinity with polyester fiber," says Goto. Another challenge of using topical antimicrobial finishes, says antimicrobial consultant William D. Hanrahan, is that "each individual fiber and fiber blend has its own chemistry and its own way of being finished. You have to make sure that the antimicrobial doesn't interfere with any other finishes being applied to the fabric, and that the characteristics of the fabric-hand, water repellency, fire retardance-aren't changed." Applied to the Fiber Applying the antimicrobial directly into the fiber master batch during synthetic fiber formation is also popular. According to Hanrahan, adding the antimicrobial at the fiber stage narrows the field of antimicrobials that can be used because synthetic fibers are commonly extruded at high temperatures. This rules out most organic antimicrobials says Mark Wiencek of Milliken, because many are not thermally stable. "They may lose some of the active ingredients. Incorporation of antimicrobials into textile fibers during the spinning process (often via a master batch) is an application dominated by silver. This is because silver is thermo-stable," he says. "Antimicrobial agents blended into the fiber can show superior washing durability, but take longer to work," says Goto. He also says that, since many of the fiber-application systems are metal-based antimicrobials, the color of the fiber can sometimes be affected. Hanrahan says that another limitation of this application is that the retailer loses flexibility, because the antimicrobial is added far back into the supply chain. "It means you have to carry inventory. And the product may be marked up along the supply chain," he says. "This application tends to be more durable, but not as economical." According to Trogolo, this kind of application is best for end-uses that need large amounts of one kind of fiber, such as upholstery or uniforms. Other Applications Other ways of applying antimicrobials to textiles are less common. Noble Biomaterials' X-Static product is a "universal and permanent coating of silver on substrates from yarn to fabric," says the company's Chief Commercial Officer, Joel M. Furey. This system is "primarily intended where users need high levels of performance," says Furey. This means "high kill rates of bacteria and fungi with a fast kill action," he says. Another product with a high kill rate is chlorine. According to Wiencek, n-halamine binders "have a unique way of dealing with antimicrobial treatments-they bind chlorine to the fabric, so that they can make claims that EPA-registered chlorine bleach can make." According to Fruchart, chlorine is "as good as any disinfectant. A 99.9% killing rate is reached within an hour, which is quicker than most other aqueous treatments." This is Fruchart's post-consumer after-treatment method. The chlorine is used as an antimicrobial and is recharged onto the fabric by adding chlorine bleach to the laundry. A drawback to this system, says Wiencek, is that although this technology is intended for niches that require industrial laundering, not all industrial laundries use chlorine-based bleach. Fruchart remarks that in a laminated product, "instead of treating the fabric, an antimicrobial agent is added in the adhesive. The active ingredient will radiate, thus creating an inhibition zone, while remaining resistant to laundering." Adhesive treatment makes it possible for laminated polyester fabric to maintain an antimicrobial activity despite prolonged washing cycles. In a similar vein, Fruchart notes that "one technique, although not frequently used, consists of placing antimicrobial agents contingent in between two membranes. The membranes' permeability allows the controlled release of active ingredients, which migrate to the surface. This type of process is mainly....for products that do not get laundered, like mattress covers and separation curtains. With complementary methods, protection can last for several years." A flexible technology like the Aegis SiQuat can be applied in or onto fibers, fabrics, or post-consumer laundry treatment, says Bob Montincello of Aegis Environments. "This versatility in application provides textile mills with options... [that] keep down costs and maximize performance," he says. "The best application procedure for antimicrobial treatment will provide for mill qualification testing and good, solid SOPs, along with quality assurance procedures that are based upon useful chemical analytical and microbiological tests," says Curt White of Aegis Environments. Does the Application Matter? Depending on the product's end-use, the marketing claims made, the antimicrobial's chemical and physical properties, and its mode of antimicrobial activity, the antimicrobial's application does matter. Some antimicrobials can be applied in several ways, but other technologies are limited to one mode of application. A product designer's main priorities, whether for flexibility, durability, cost, compatibility with other finishes, spectrum of microbes to be fought, or high-performance, may influence the application, and the antimicrobial, chosen to protect that product. Application matters! Originally published in AATCC News; June 2009 © AATCC About the Author The author is associated with AATCC.

Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles By : Maria C. Thiry

Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles

By : Maria C. Thiry Source: AATCC There are many options to weigh when considering which antimicrobial is best for a particular product. Application method is an important aspect to examine in more detail. According to Damien Fruchart, textile engineer with Asix International Development Consultancy, there are three main options for applying an antimicrobial agent to textiles. Each has its own advantages and challenges. The first option is treating the fabric through an "aqueous process" in the finishing line with the antimicrobial substance. The second is incorporating the antimicrobial into or onto the fiber itself. A third application method, according to Fruchart, is post-consumer, "an additive designed to be added to the laundering water each time the product is washed." Applied to the Fabric The benefit of topical antimicrobial treatment applied to the fabric during the finishing stage is that "Topical application is more versatile," says Jeff Trogolo, chief technology officer for antimicrobial supplier Agion. "It's later in the process and gives the retailer more flexibility about which fabric to choose." A topical antimicrobial finish is appropriate for any use that uses a relatively small amount of fabric, or one that mixes many different fiber types, Trogolo says. Washfastness is key, says Hirotoshi Goto, professional engineer JP for fabric supplier Toray Industries. In Japan, the standard for wash durability is 50 washes at 80C for industrial laundering such as hospitals. For non-hygiene-critical applications such as home laundering, 20 washes at 40C is considered standard. Washfastness can be improved through the use of a highly durable resinous binder, which has better affinity with the agent and fiber and works like an adhesive, says Goto. "But this kind of resin is hydrophobic, and will give new problems," he says. Issues may include residual formaldehyde, or a fabric that is unable to absorb perspiration. Goto says that a new method used by his company applies the antimicrobial as a fabric finish without a binder. Instead, the antimicrobial infiltrates into the synthetic fibers in a manner similar to a disperse dye. "This agent has especially high affinity with polyester fiber," says Goto. Another challenge of using topical antimicrobial finishes, says antimicrobial consultant William D. Hanrahan, is that "each individual fiber and fiber blend has its own chemistry and its own way of being finished. You have to make sure that the antimicrobial doesn't interfere with any other finishes being applied to the fabric, and that the characteristics of the fabric-hand, water repellency, fire retardance-aren't changed." Applied to the Fiber Applying the antimicrobial directly into the fiber master batch during synthetic fiber formation is also popular. According to Hanrahan, adding the antimicrobial at the fiber stage narrows the field of antimicrobials that can be used because synthetic fibers are commonly extruded at high temperatures. This rules out most organic antimicrobials says Mark Wiencek of Milliken, because many are not thermally stable. "They may lose some of the active ingredients. Incorporation of antimicrobials into textile fibers during the spinning process (often via a master batch) is an application dominated by silver. This is because silver is thermo-stable," he says. "Antimicrobial agents blended into the fiber can show superior washing durability, but take longer to work," says Goto. He also says that, since many of the fiber-application systems are metal-based antimicrobials, the color of the fiber can sometimes be affected. Hanrahan says that another limitation of this application is that the retailer loses flexibility, because the antimicrobial is added far back into the supply chain. "It means you have to carry inventory. And the product may be marked up along the supply chain," he says. "This application tends to be more durable, but not as economical." According to Trogolo, this kind of application is best for end-uses that need large amounts of one kind of fiber, such as upholstery or uniforms. Other Applications Other ways of applying antimicrobials to textiles are less common. Noble Biomaterials' X-Static product is a "universal and permanent coating of silver on substrates from yarn to fabric," says the company's Chief Commercial Officer, Joel M. Furey. This system is "primarily intended where users need high levels of performance," says Furey. This means "high kill rates of bacteria and fungi with a fast kill action," he says. Another product with a high kill rate is chlorine. According to Wiencek, n-halamine binders "have a unique way of dealing with antimicrobial treatments-they bind chlorine to the fabric, so that they can make claims that EPA-registered chlorine bleach can make." According to Fruchart, chlorine is "as good as any disinfectant. A 99.9% killing rate is reached within an hour, which is quicker than most other aqueous treatments." This is Fruchart's post-consumer after-treatment method. The chlorine is used as an antimicrobial and is recharged onto the fabric by adding chlorine bleach to the laundry. A drawback to this system, says Wiencek, is that although this technology is intended for niches that require industrial laundering, not all industrial laundries use chlorine-based bleach. Fruchart remarks that in a laminated product, "instead of treating the fabric, an antimicrobial agent is added in the adhesive. The active ingredient will radiate, thus creating an inhibition zone, while remaining resistant to laundering." Adhesive treatment makes it possible for laminated polyester fabric to maintain an antimicrobial activity despite prolonged washing cycles. In a similar vein, Fruchart notes that "one technique, although not frequently used, consists of placing antimicrobial agents contingent in between two membranes. The membranes' permeability allows the controlled release of active ingredients, which migrate to the surface. This type of process is mainly....for products that do not get laundered, like mattress covers and separation curtains. With complementary methods, protection can last for several years." A flexible technology like the Aegis SiQuat can be applied in or onto fibers, fabrics, or post-consumer laundry treatment, says Bob Montincello of Aegis Environments. "This versatility in application provides textile mills with options... [that] keep down costs and maximize performance," he says. "The best application procedure for antimicrobial treatment will provide for mill qualification testing and good, solid SOPs, along with quality assurance procedures that are based upon useful chemical analytical and microbiological tests," says Curt White of Aegis Environments. Does the Application Matter? Depending on the product's end-use, the marketing claims made, the antimicrobial's chemical and physical properties, and its mode of antimicrobial activity, the antimicrobial's application does matter. Some antimicrobials can be applied in several ways, but other technologies are limited to one mode of application. A product designer's main priorities, whether for flexibility, durability, cost, compatibility with other finishes, spectrum of microbes to be fought, or high-performance, may influence the application, and the antimicrobial, chosen to protect that product. Application matters! Originally published in AATCC News; June 2009 © AATCC About the Author The author is associated with AATCC.

A Comparative Study of Different Stone and Bio-stone Washing of Denim

Abstract

Denim washing is known as one of the finishing treatment that has vast usage because of creating special appearance and updating clothes. Washing jean clothes are being developed and technology of denim washing is the main part of clothes Industry. In current study, comparison of different washing methods is considered. Different methods of denim washing including the use of pumice stone, neutral and acid cellulases and also combination of pumice stone and cellulases. The change of color of resulting samples are compared by the reflecting colorimeter of inside garment, outside garment and pocket material after doing experiments. Tensile of samples is measured, XRD spectrum and crystalline degree also monitored. Furthermore, the surfaces of fibers in treated samples have been observed by SEM images. The result of experiments shows that neutral cellulases produced a fabric with higher lightness and increasing of enzyme adding to back staining. Denim treatment with 100% o.w.f pumice stone alone wasn't effective. However, combination of 100% pumice stone with cellulases showed a good washing effect.

Keywords: Denim, Stone washing, Back-staining, Lightness, Cellulases, Pumice stone

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About the Authors

The authors are associated with Department of Textile Engineering, Amirkabir University of Technology and Postgraduate Department, South Branch of Tehran Azad University, Tehran, Iran, respectively.